BIKEPGH MESSAGE BOARD ARCHIVE

The source:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

I have the Park BBB, it seems pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBB-2-Bicycle-Repair/dp/B001B6NAW2/ref=pd_sim_b_3

Agreed on the above, plus I'd recommend the Park Tool online repair guide.

You doing those compact cranks you were talking about?

Thanks guys for the help so far. You will be seing more post on this as the problems escalate.

reddan, I am going to try it. I hope it solves the problem.

Good luck. I'll be installing mine sometime in the next week or two as well.

This site has lots of videos that have been very helpful to me.

bicycletutor.com

TDW, I'm sure it will helpful for me as well. I am still in the process of trying to figure out what I will need to complete it. I'm trying to keep the cost down, but they just keep increasing as I go along.

I divide bike costs into four types:

1: Permanent equipment, like tools and a work stand.

2: Parts that you can expect to last a while, like rims and cranks.

3: Parts that you can expect to replace before too long, like brake pads and tires.

4: Supplies, like lubricants and patches.

No formula exists (that I'm aware of) for figuring out how much to spend on each. I would not scrimp on #1. Get the best you can afford when you decide to get one, as you only want to buy those once.

I find myself spending the most on #3. For me, lights also end up in this category. YMMV.

StuinMcCandless, when are you going to have your five-boros ride?

Right now, the biggest expense I am looking at with this upgrade is number 2. If I can just change the crank to a compact and not change the freewheel from a 9 to a 10 cog, my cost will be something I think is reasonable. If I have to change the freewheel, I will have to change the wheels, derailleurs and chain, too.

You can get a compact 9 speed crank if that's what you're asking.

I would like to put a compact crank on now that will work with a 9 speed, and later be able to increase to a 10 speed without changing the crank.

@Shel the difference in 9/10 speed cranks is negligible. I ran a Shimano R700 crank for several years as 9spd and then went 10 with no problem. I did the same with a SRAM crank before that and am currently doing it on a FSA crank for the MTB.

Cranks are reasonably insensitive to the number of gears in the rear.

Thanks Chris Mayhew, I will keep that in mind. I am pretty new to doing my own work on bikes, and I get things confused every now and then.

I have another question. I am 5'10". My bike currently has a 53/39 crank with a 172.5 mm crankarm length. I want to put a 50/34 crank on. Should I shorten the crankarm length to 170 mm?

There's no need to shorten the crank.

My new winter project....

I just picked up this frameset over the weekend and hope to have it together before spring. It's a 2003 that was never built and was in the original box with the warrantee card.

Anyone have a set of 650c wheels for sale?

650c wheels fell out of favor for tri a few years ago. While this has made them a little harder to find, you might be able to track down some deals on wheels and tires in shop basements if you call around.

Velocity has wheels, as well as a lot of rims in 650c if you wish to lace 'em up yourself.

Also check out the online recumbent stores (Hostel Shoppe or Bacchetta for example), as the 650c size is still quite popular for the dual-big-wheel highracers.

Reddan, thanks I think I found a reasonable set on Bacchetta.

Now all I think I need is one of those big long pointy aerodynamic time trial helmets!

Now all I think I need is one of those big long pointy aerodynamic time trial helmets!

And people say 'bent riders are dorks...