Un-tools and jury-rigged repairs

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RickyTickyTac
Participant
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After a recent post with some debate over filing out stem clamps, I’ve begun to think about other not-so-right things I’ve made work, including never buying a lockring tool and just using a hammer and flat screwdriver, losing my hammer somewhere and using a big 1/4 inch ratchet instead, a homemade chain whip made of an old chain and vice grips, a rubber cement and duct tape patch that actually worked for a day or two, Sheldon-style home made brake mounts (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html) and filing a quill stem made for a 22.2 diameter fork down to 22.0 (i guess i have a habit of using the wrong stem all the time.)

Anybody else have goofy things they have rigged up?


Pierce
Participant
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Hmmm, I like those home made brake mounts. I might be able to use that setup to rid my commuter of disc brakes if I could get another wheel.


dooftram
Participant
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Sanding a 22.2 stem down to a 22.0 is pretty familiar to me. This happens when you discover that there is no such thing as a new French stem available in the size you need. I blame the French thing for most of my pathetic mechanical improvs.

For a year or so I managed to keep a used Shimano Octalink bottom bracket (hey, it was free and came w/ a nice 105 crank) working in a partially stripped French threaded BB shell. I’m still not sure how I got that to (sort of) work. I think I used plumber’s tape, loctite, and then finally some epoxy-like shit I found laying around.

Frame is now stripped and waiting to be given a proper threadless BB and some paint/new parts. It’s just a cheap 70s bike boom frame, but has the kinda weird (62cm seattube/ 57cm top tube) geometry that fits my oddball proportions perfectly and I just can’t seem to find that anywhere else.


Jane
Member
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I have a really, really beat up Bianchi Pista frameset (to give you an idea of how beat up it is I only paid $25 for it) that I want to use as my three speed, however being that it is a track frame it doesn’t have a brake-mounting hole in that bar that connects the seat stays (not sure if this even has a name..?).

I am thinking about drilling a hole here so that I can mount a rear brake, and I would like to know if anyone has ever done anything like this before… Any advice?


edmonds59
Participant
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skipdip, the more important thing would be to determine if the bar is the right distance from the wheel for a brake to reach properly. That bar is not structurally critical so drilling the hole would not be a big deal. But try and get a measurement from the rim to the bar (center to center), then look for brake calipers with the right reach range.

I love 3 spds, feel free to shoot me any questions you run into about those.


Lyle
Participant
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Or use a hub brake (drum/coaster/disk).


cburch
Participant
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jane. internally geared 3 speed with coaster brake. and wrap around fenders front and rear. super mega awesome winter commuter.


RickyTickyTac
Participant
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We actually picked up a coaster brake 3-speed hub for this very project, but aren’t sure if she would end up liking it.

and dooftram, most womens’-specific frames are longer in the seat tube and shorter on the top tube to accommodate womens’ leggier bodies. I’m not sure if any are made with a 62cm seat tube, though.


RickyTickyTac
Participant
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Oh, and one other thing. I’ve seen a blue Pista around Pitt campus that has had this very operation done, and is using a standard-reach Tektro rear brake caliper.


Greasefoot
Participant
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Not sure if this is a jury-rigged repair…I use Velo Orange threadless stem adapters on a few of my older Schwinns and I like them a lot. They’re much stiffer (less flexy) than the Nitto Technomic quill stem.

Because the adapters are cylindrical, they’re ideal for turning on a lathe. A local machine shop charged me $20 to do a professional job of shaving the diameter from 22.2mm to 21.1mm so it would fit the old Schwinn fork steerer tube.

Here’s a photo showing (left to right) the OEM 21.1mm stem, the VO adapter shaved to 21.1mm with threadless stem, and a stock 22.2mm VO adapter. I used the quill from the OEM stem. The shaved addaptor is still twice as thick then the OEM stem and I have never questioned it’s safety.

  Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


BradQ
Participant
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Skip – You should not have any trouble drilling out the seatstay bridge on a Pista for mounting a rear brake. I’d make sure it is the correct distance from the rim as mentioned above, but otherwise it shouldn’t be a problem. Some of the newer Bianchi Pistas are drilled from the factory.


Jane
Member
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Thanks Bill, Lyle, Colin, and Brad– I think I will just try out the coaster brake hub that I have and see how I like it. ..I can do some drilling if I don’t.

I can’t wait to have a three speed again!!


helen s
Participant
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I had to file down the diameter of the braze on slant tube shifter nubs to put new shifters on my old Motobecane.

I also ended up temporarily lashing the bottom of the rear rack ends to the bike with old shoelaces.


RickyTickyTac
Participant
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I’ve tried a similar rack-mounting method with zip ties. It lasted about an hour. And I used good zip ties, too.


AtLeastMyKidsLoveMe
Participant
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I once made a bike out of some paper clips, a chewing gum wrapper and toothpaste. Oh no wait, that was McGuyver. Darnit, he got to do all the cool stuff.

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